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“I thought of him every day in Antarctica,” Chin says. Anker describes the moment Chin took on the summit of Ulvetanna to remember his father as “touching.” After a month of being in one of the most awesome and outrageous mountain ranges in the world doing exactly what he loves to do with a group of close friends, Chin realized he’d made the right decision. Chin nearly bailed, but decided, with a bit of uncertainty, to go. Sadly, the day before Chin was scheduled to leave for this six-week Antarctic expedition, Chin’s father passed away. It was cool.”Īnker and Chin remain close climbing partners and friends, with recent escapades including an expedition to Antarctica’s Queen Maud Land, where they climbed a new route on Ulvetanna, or the “Wolf’s Tooth.” “The entryway displayed all of our photos and the whole story. and saw me do a talk at Grosvenor Auditorium with Conrad and Rick,” says Chin. Getting published in National Geographic helped Chin’s parents understand and see the value of their son’s non-traditional path. The story, which featured Chin’s photographs, appeared in the April 2003 issue of National Geographic magazine. The following year, Anker invited Chin on to join him, Galen Rowell, and Rick Ridgeway on an unsupported crossing of the remote Chang Tang Plateau in Tibet.
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Most importantly, his success caught the attention of mountaineering legend Conrad Anker, who, in 2001, helped Chin get his first professional gig shooting a campaign for The North Face and a coveted athlete sponsorship from the brand. The photographs Chin captured appeared on a number of outdoor company catalogs and, as Chin says, “All of a sudden, I was in.” For Chin, the entire experience-planning the trip, finding funding, climbing a dangerous new route in one of the most remote and rugged mountain ranges in the world, and documenting the adventure with his new camera-was pivotal. During the ascent, the duo faced falling rocks and ice blocks that nearly crushed them. They went to Pakistan’s Karakoram mountains and established a first ascent on a granite spire named Fathi Brakk in the Charakusa Valley. People really love him, want him to be successful, and want to work with him.”Īt 23, Chin organized his first international climbing expedition with Robinson. “He is very ambitious, yet he comes across as chill and unassuming.
“Jimmy has a personal charisma and drive that is very unusual,” Robinson continues. They split the cash, and Chin put his share toward the purchase of his first camera. Robinson developed the slide and sold the photo for $500, a veritable fortune to a climbing dirtbag. He saw Robinson’s camera lying atop his pack and snapped a photo of his sleeping partner. One time, while bivouacking on the summit of El Capitan, Chin awoke to a glorious sunrise. Robinson and Chin spent their early 20s climbing together in Yosemite. He did not receive his parents’ blessing. After graduation, he moved into the back of his car, parked in Yosemite National Park, and became a full-time climbing 'dirtbag'-a term of endearment in the community used to reference climbers who give up other luxuries in dedication to the sport.
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“You had to prove yourself.”Īs an undergrad at Carleton College, Chin learned how to rock climb and caught the bug. “I was told you had to sweep the front door of the Shaolin temple for years before the masters would even look at you,” says Chin. The merits of hard work and humility were recurrent themes in the kung fu stories his father often told him. He got straight A’s through school, swam competitively, and competed in martial arts. The precocious Chin, fluent in Chinese and English, started playing violin at age four. “I didn’t grow up climbing and skiing in Estes Park.
“I grew up as far away from the adventure world as you can get,” says Chin, 45. It was an unlikely setting to raise a world-class mountaineer. Eventually, they immigrated to the flatlands of Mankato, Minnesota, where they built a life working as librarians. Chai Vasarhelyi, in cinemas now.ĭuring the Communist Revolution, Jimmy Chin’s parents escaped mainland China and fled to Taiwan. The film, which Chin directed and produced with E.
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Jimmy Chin's latest film, Free Solo, is an intimate, unflinching look at Alex Honnold's journey toward his rope-free climb of the world's most famous rock wall-Yosemite National Park's El Capitan.
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